Rovijn, Istrian Peninsula, Croatia

September 9-14th, 2014,

In mid-September I spent five days on the Istrian peninsula in Croatia. This is not the Croatia that everyone hums about, well at least the American hum. That’s further south, on the Dalmatian Coast (Hvar, Split, Dubrovnik.) Instead, this is the Istrian Croatia, which shares a border with Italy and Slovenia and is far less party / beach-centric than its southern sister. Here the focus is on the slow-lifestyle of tourism with a heavy emphasis on the (quite impressive) epicurean attributes of the surrounding area. It’s the truffle capital of Europe. Who knew?

Thought it feels off the beaten-path for us Americans, I daresay those crafty Germans and other northern Europeans are well attuned to the area, along with neighboring Italians who come mainly during Ferragosto – the August holidays.  The area is nothing but picturesque and the tiny fishing village of Rovijn is the crown jewel. So charming is it, that the area’s top luxury hotel owners, Croatia’s largest Tobacco company, Maistra, believe it to be prime to complete with France’s Cote d’Azur. An ambitious goal, needless to say. However, the two areas do share many similar natural wonders, while the recently revamped, five-star Monte Mulini, where I was stayed is a strong step in the right direction.

Other remarkable elements of the area are the jade-colored Adriatic waters, delicious to swim in and even better to sail around on. Rovijn is, truly,  a rather striking and comfortable little hamlet, whose Venetian roots make it feel wonderfully Italian. It’s waterfront bars and restaurants are ideal for a sun-setting aperitif or romantic dinner while the marble promontory that connects the hotels to the town center is well groomed and makes for easy access either on foot or on bicycle, as many visitors were. (NB. The area is hugely popular with cyclists) I also adored the neighboring parkland, which featured two walking and biking trails, as well as a sheer-face rock-climbing area and various swimming holes.

Here are my top 3 suggestions:

3 Things to Do in Rovijn / Croatian Istria

1. Truffle Hunt – the area is perhaps the best in Europe (so they say, and judging from the bounty, so it would seem.  This lovely man and his ladies below will treat you to a hunt followed by a truffle-filled meal at the restaurant.

Our truffle hunter and his trusty pooches. They use dogs instead of swine because they’re less likely to eat the truffles. And you wonder where the phrase. “selfish pig” comes from.

2. Olive Oil Taste at Chiavalon – the passionate owner will take you through an informative history on his family-owned, design award-winning olive oil vineyard, followed by an instructive tasting where helpful tips for distinguishing the good from the mediocre were abundant, such as “it should make you cough after swallowing.”

3. Tour the food market stalls – and by tour, I mean sample. Everything. From fresh fruit like stunning peaches to truffle pesto. And then, Climb the St. Eustasis Tower in Rovijn for both the exercise and the tower’s 360-degree views. Don’t mind the rickety stairway – it’s part of the charm.

Fresh Orata at the market in Rovijn

Muse by Jonathan Cartwright
Vanderbilt Grace
Newport, R.I.

Despite the weather turning stormy in Newport last Saturday night, my evening was delightfully warm and cozy –-thanks to the generous staff and tasting menu at Vanderbilt Grace’s Muse restuarant. While the rain beat against the windows, I was happily ensconced in a plush corner banquet surrounded by starched white tablecloths, soft blue walls and flickering glass-shaded candlesticks. Needless to say, I was ideally situated for the weather.

Muse at Vanderbilt Grace

Helmed by chef Jonathan Cartwright, a Grand Chef Relais and Chateaux, Muse is known for seasonal New England fare with an international (read: gourmand) flare. The restaurant has also just been awarded “Best lobster dish in New England” by Rhode Island Magazine for its superb butter-poached smoked Lobster. With such an accolade, I couldn’t resist and made that my first dish of the fairly-priced ($75), prix-fix menu.

The Blue Ribbon Special: The Smoked Lobster

I followed up the award-winner, which was quite good – though, I confess, lobster with mayo and a buttered roll is more my speed – with an intermezzo of white tomato soup with basil dumpling. Not only is the idea of an intermezzo fantastically indulgent, but the soup itself, was wonderfully light – the mark of a good intermezzo. With a bottle of Frog’s Leap Merlot, I opted for the Veal Medallions and Herb Crusted Cutlet of Spring Lamb with Pea Puree, Ratatouille Ravioli and Madeira Sauce for my main course. Other offerings such as pan-roasted halibut or pan-seared Guinea Hen Breast with Quebec Foie Gras were tough choices to overlook, but I’m a sucker for the lamb and madeira combo. Plus, my husband had ordered the Foie Gras for his starter and dutifully given me half (a spousal kindness, if ever there was one). The veal was perfectly cooked while the lamb was ideally spiced, as in lightly adorned with a smattering herbs that enhanced rather than overshadowed the meat’s natural jus. I closed the meal with their selection of fine ripened New England cheese, which was well-selected and came with warm olive toasts. Despite my order of cheese, my sweet tooth is forever primed. Fortunately, our lovely server brought over a decadent plate of truffles as we handled the bill, capping off an excellent meal with just the right caliber of sweetness.

The bar at The Muse

Indeed the above review reads overwhelmingly positive, but it was truly a lovely experience (says the critic). I confess, I’m a sucker for a restaurant who has embraced modernity (well-lit, fresh decor, efficient service) yet maintained the traditions (full, hearty courses, polite staff) of olde-world fine dining. Given the Vanderbilt Grace’s 100-year old history and elegant, brick facade and traditional interiors, I find it an ideal place to dine when visiting Newport. It’s mixture of classic moldings and modern light fixtures make for an attractive melding of old and new and secure it as one of Newport’s top date spots – particularly if you can reserve the corner banquet.

Rooftop Terrace at Vanderbilt Grace in Newport

ROLLIN’ WITH NOLAN TIP:
Since Muse is located in the front of the mansion, facing the street, the restaurant’s views are unremarkable. However, start the date off with a cocktail up on their roof deck, preferably during sunset, and then the tucked-away atmosphere of the restaurant becomes a welcome compliment to the evening.

Saint Tropez, France

The most delectable thing. Ever.

I just got back from a wonderful week visiting the seaside towns of France – from Normandy’s charming Deauville to the Cote du Basque’s family-friendly, surf-spot Saint Jean de Luz and the crown jewel port of Saint Tropez on the Cote d’Azure. Throughout the week I was greeted by misty sea breezes and cuisine that brutalized any modicum of self-restraint. I ate cheeses by the pound, croissants and foie gras daily and would be lying if I didn’t admit that I enjoyed every bite guilt free. Now, back home, I am chiding myself, but I’m certain regret from not having tasted it all would be worse.

I have lots to report back from the trip, from hotels to activities to yes, meals, but the first thing that I must post is this recipe given to me from chef Vincent Maillard of the Byblos Hotel in Saint Tropez. It is for his version of La Tropezienne, the town’s famous cream-filled cake. I have chosen this to be the first thing I share with you all simply because it is the best, most unbelievable thing I have ever tasted. Seriously.

He does it in beignet form too, but the cake is the real piece de resistance

I’m not a baker and so will unlikely ever attempt to recreate this masterpiece, but if you do, please let me know how it turns out. Otherwise, just pack your bags and go. It’s not as if one needs further enticement to visit the beautiful beachside village of Saint Tropez, but this cake truly is a remarkably compelling reason to book a flight. Two types of cream with a crumble top – need I say more?

Chef Vincent Maillard in front of three different versions of his masterpiece

**The recipe is in French but googletranslate should help take care of it. And let’s face it, those that will endeavor to do this, likely have followed French recipes before…Bon Chance!

CREME MOUSELINE :
200g de pâtissière et 200g de crème au beurre lisser les deux Puis les mélanger délicatement

Crème pâtissier :
1l lait ½ Faire chauffer lait et gousse de vanille avec un peu de sucre.
250g jaune d œufs Blanchir sucre et jaunes, ajouter la poudre a crème .puis cuire
100g poudre a crème l ensemble 3mn
2 gousses de vanille

Crème au beurre :
250g lait ½ Elle doit être réalisé en trois parties. Préparé d abord une
200g sucre crème anglaise a laquelle on ajoutera le beurre pommade
215g jaunes d œufs et pour finir la meringue
1 gousse de vanille
850g beurre
200g meringue italienne 125g blanc 250g sucre 100g d eaux
Mettre à cuire le sucre et l eau a 117°C/121°C puis le
Verser sur les blancs et laisser refroidir

PATE A BRIOCHE :
1kg farine Mélanger tout les ingrédients puis attendre que la pate
30g levure se décolle de la cuve et ajouter le beurre
20g sel
500g beurre
600g oeufs
120g Sucre
30g ameliorant

CROUSTILLANT CRUMBLE:
250g beurre fondu Mélanger tous les ingrédients faire un pâton
400g sucre semoule puis le réserver au frigo, quand le tout et bien refroidi
600g farine émietter le tout

SORBET FRAMBOISE :
-1000g de purée de fraise Mélanger le tout a froid et mettre en Paco
-500g de fraises entières
-300g de sucre

SALADE DE FRAMBOISE :
300g framboise
65g sucre semoule
1 zeste de citron