December 20th, 2009
Dublin, Ireland
Somehow, someway, through the divinity of our merciful Lord, I ended up having to spend two nights in Dublin on my route home to the U.S. for the Holidays. Okay, that’s what my Irish heritage probably wishes were my feelings about it all. Alas, I was cursing Aer Lingus and the crummy weather in Europe and New York as passionately as I could.
Despite little (no) snow on the ground we were grounded
After we de-boarded our flight we were told that the next possible day we could get back to the States was Tuesday, two days later than we had planned. The ground staff then directed us to an airport hotel where they put us up with meals (albeit restricted ones) included. Normally, airlines assume no responsibility when weather is to blame yet somehow they did. That lead me to believe that something was up. Rather than argue my way around the logic, I took my meal ticket and slopped some shephards pie on my tray and watched with envy as my husband was able to enjoy a Guinness on tap. After one night in the airport hotel, which incidentally had NO HEAT, I bucked up and decided to make the most of our blessed final 24-hours in Dublin. I got on the ‘book, as my friend Trevor calls it – Facebook, that is, and emailed my second cousin Geoff to see if he was available to play tour guide. Then I went in hunt of a good rate at a better hotel in the city from which to explore the sites.
A government building and the sunshine that kept us stranded in Dublin
With an American Express rate in hand, we hopped a cab and left the frigid airport digs in favor of the illustrious Merrion Hotel.
The front door of the Merrion decorated for the Holidays
The Georgian, brick facade of the hotel is warm and welcoming, particularly at the holidays. The government building pictured above is actually directly across from the entrance. Blessed (again) with crisp sunny weather, my husband and I headed off to explore the easily walkable downtown area of Dublin.
First we hit the Merrion Park and came upon a rather compelling statue of Oscar Wilde up on a rock. I felt the need to join him, despite my deteriorating agility.
After that we walked up towards Dublin’s prettiest park, St. Stephen’s Green (pictured below).
As you can see, the weather was hardly formidable
A nice stroll through the park let us out at the very top of Grafton Street, Dubin’s most populated shopping street. As you can imagine, the street was humming with people and storefronts screaming holiday bargains. We allowed ourselves to get swept away by the stream of the crowd, content to aimlessly gaze around with little purpose.
Imagine 600 more people in this photo and that's what our day looked like. So much so I didn't even bother to take my own photo
We stopped for lunch at a great spot, found randomly (although it is embarrassingly, right across the street from the Tourist office) called O’Neills. Although it looks small from the outside, it’s actually quite enormous inside with two different types of meals offered – hot and cold. I opted for a make-your-own sandwich and was delighted by the result. We sat at a table that had its own tap and monitored your beer intake. That, of course, was the biggest hit. Again, I watched wtih envy as my husband took down another two pints of Guinness.
A definite tourist spot yet surprisingly good and charming inside
After lunch my wonderful cousin Geoff rang and arranged to meet us at one of his favorite pubs, Davy Byrnes, located on the other side of Grafton Street. We headed inside to quite an upscale establishment – well, relative to where we had just been.
The pub is one of Dublin’s most famous on account of its multiple references in Joyce’s Ulysses. Geoff told us that even though it can be a bit of a ‘tourist-trap’, it’s quite popular among Dubliners and he and ‘his mates’ meet there often. After another pint, this the bartender poured me my own mini-version which, is known locally as a French Guinness because the French can’t often handle a full pint. So, with my dignity a bit bruised, we pushed onto Temple Bar area, Dublin’s famous pub-crawl hotspot and favorite among Hen and Stag Parties.
The Elephant and Castle restaurant in Temple Bar - sister to a personal fave on W. 11th and Bleecker in NYC
After strolling past all the eateries (so many!), headshops and bars, Geoff steered us to the area’s iconic bar, the Temple Bar Pub.
Me and cuz Geoff - a great tour guide and even better guy
More than 160 years old, the pub is quite the gathering place with live music and multiple spots to sit, eat and of course, drink. That night there was a solo act on stage, strumming his guitar and belting tunes into the mike. I can’t say I recognized any of them but his talent was easily notable. It appears the pub has won the Irish Music Pub of the Year award for the last seven years in a row. As our cabdriver later explained, you can’t have a few pints of Guinness without a proper singsong.
After my husband’s fifth Guinness, Geoff took us on a fabulously detailed tour of Trinity College, his Alma-mater. Unfortunately a few of the buildings were closed, namely the dining hall which is purported to look like Hogwarts from Harry Potter, but having Geoff’s narrative of his happy years as a student run throughout the tour far made up for any locked doors.
Apologies for the cribbed photo - it was dark when we walked around. It does look nice in the spring thought doesn't it.
Geoff’s tales and the stunning architecture of the college made me chide myself for having not studied a semester at Trinity. The college’s unique location, tucked within the center of the city, is a source of estimable pride and is truly unique. Sure, my university was in a city too but we were somewhat ensconced in our own western enclave with nary a metro to access downtown DC. Here the gated walls protect the inner sanctum of the College allowing it to thrive as a peaceful and quiet environment, sheltering the students so they may study. Or play rugby, host massive parties on the green and do whatever else students find themselves doing.
Leaving the quietude of Trinity we emerged smack back in the center of the city with only a few blocks to stroll to Geoff’s next pub of choice. The pub (whose name I’m totally forgetting), is named after the man who used to live upstairs, is an old-school establishment and highly popular with young Dubliners. Geoff ran into a few mates quite easily and so we left him there happily reminiscing with old pals.
We headed back to the Merrion and our delightful garden room. The bed was nice and plush and the bathroom was bedecked in marble, complete with a sunken tub.
English style at the Merrion
After showering we had a simple dinner down the street and walked back to our hotel in the chilly night air. It began to rain and we were happy to have stayed close to home for our meal. I was a bit remiss that we didn’t go downstairs in the hotel’s restaurant, The Vault, for our meal but the prices were a bit over our head and frankly, I wasn’t up for getting gussied up. Nevertheless, we fell asleep happy to have had a chance to see such a special, small city in good weather and shown around by a charming native. We also enjoyed the Merrion and the hospitality there immensely. Here’s a pic that the kindly doorman insisted on taking of me when I was photographing the hotel, saying a pretty lass like myself must also be in the photos.
Ahhh, the Irish.
What better says giving and Holiday Spirit than a little self-promotion? It’s that time of year again when you think of your loved ones in a most desperate manner as your rack your brain over the perfect gift that screams, “I swear I didn’t just think of this last week”. Well, friends and readers, search no more because nothing says quality thought and personal attention like a highly edited book on Italy featuring 30 exceptional properties and 200 enticing photographs.
ITALIAN HIDEAWAYS
Click on photo for purchase options at Amazon or better yet, request it from your local bookstore so they’ll make an order and maybe even consider ordering more than 1!
And if you don’t believe me, see what the press said when it debuted:
“…an invaluable guide and the perfect companion for anyone with a discerning eye for the classical beauty of Europe.” ~Bal Harbour
“…embraces the subtle, sensual charm of Italy…these small pleasures that make Nolan’s hideaways so utterly Italian.” ~Interiors Magazine
“Book your tickets because Italian Hideaways will inspire you to pack your bags…From the modern to the traditional, urban to remote, each of these locations will appeal to a different type of traveler, but every page is filled with its best-kept secrets.” ~Quest
“Don’t read this book unless you are ready to hop on a plane. This portrait of Italy is simply irresistible.” ~Southern Accents
“Along with evocative photography and detailed descriptions of each tucked-away gem, Nolan provides insight into the personalities of the owners and the history of the buildings–and, of course, which specific room to reserve.” ~Town & Country
And did you know that they translated it into German? Muss es sein? Es muss sein!: “Must it be? It must be!” —Beethoven
In an effort to ramp up your enthusiasm and encourage you to buy a present that you can also boast has some connection to your intrepid online research skills (aka random blog reading) or your personal connection to me, I’m going to post some extra shots and early material for a behind-the-scenes (like extras on a DVD menu) peak into the book.
Brussels, Belgium
December 5, 2009
Now that I’m a registered resident of the EU, I figure it’s within my civic duty to visit as many neighboring capitals and charming spots as possible. Given my last-minute nature, the inaugural visit was bound to be close by and relatively short. NB: I vow as I grow to a more mature European inhabitant to become more elaborate in my planning.
Fortunately, Brussels, Belgium’s astoundingly beautiful capital city, was a first stop that did not disappoint! Our one-night adventure happened to fall upon the city’s annual Sinterklaas celebration – December 5th.
We caught the parade just as it was going by our hotel towards the Grand Place
The guys walking on stilts were quite impressive!
Without getting into too much detail (for fear of the ensuing debate and gasps the full explanation will cause), I’ll quickly explain that Sinterklaas is the Dutch and Flemish celebration of Saint Nicholas’ visit from Spain, on horseback and boat, to reward the good children with presents or – and this is where it gets weird – capture the bad ones with the aid of his black faced helpers, Zwarte Piet, and bring them back to Spain in burlap sacks. They also toss cookies and candies at the kids too. When I say toss I really mean chuck at their heads.
Sinterklaas
Zwarte Pieten
So, checking all bias towards odd cultural celebrations aside – I can state that both here in Amsterdam and in Brussels the crowd absolutely loves the Sinterklaas tradition and its hard not to follow along. I was lucky enough to get to experience both locations since Sinterklaas came to Amterdam a few weeks early. I dutifully bought a zwarte piet purple cap and indulged in an Oliebol (fried dough ball).
Back to Brussels — Much to our delight, our hotel, the refurbished and elegantly appointed HOTEL AMIGO, part of the Rocco Forte collection, was smack in the middle of the action, just a stone’s throw from the Grand Place and a mere seven minute walk from the train station.
The classic facade of the Hotel Amigo
The gingerbread house hotel was quite a sight, even more so with Christmas wreaths and a massive tree in the foyer. The check-in and concierge were ever so helpful and kindly adapted to my vacillations between poor French, basic Dutch and fluent English without a raised eyebrow.
The affable doorman in the distance
Our room, a Classic King, was no more than 400 square feet with a comfortable squishy bed and elegant linen coverlet. The signature Olga Polizzi (Rocco Forte’s sister and constant decor guru behind each of his properties) touch was evident through the striped wool throw blanket, striped pillows and the curved headboard.
This room is bigger than ours but the fresh, clean-cut decor is the same
Alas our room looked right into the wall of another building so we kept our curtains closed and chose instead to focus on the beautiful marble bathroom and its wonderfully heated floors. Every time I experience heated bathroom floors I always marvel and how ingenius they are and how “someday, when I have money”…. I also drew a sumptuous bubble bath with the Rocco Forte bath products which bubbled quite tremendously and enjoyed my view of the bathrooms’ framed drawings and figurines of Belgian’s favorite comic star: TinTin.
The framed portraits in the bathroom
The hotel could not have been more helpful with suggestions for my planned culinary tour of the city. My main objective of the trip was to verify that Belgian food was leagues above Dutch. The concierge wisely steered us (and reserved us) at multiple spots, including brunch the following day at fancy spot called Lola, where the waiters were confident their spot was the best in town. It is slightly more formal than we had wanted (we were feeling more brasserie style) but the food was excellent. I’d recommend it for dinner though rather than brunch.
With our plans set, we headed off into the celebratory crowd of Sinterklaas revelers towards the throngs in the Grand Place and the various food and craft stands at the Christmas market. Of course, our first stop – one we were advised by all who have been to Brussels before – was at a street waffle stand.
We opted for a half chocolate and a half creme anglaise. It was perhaps the most delectable thing I have eaten since I have been in the low countries.
My husband Friso devouring his chocolate half while I wait impatiently for my creamy one
Wow – I’m writing that about the waffles being the most delicious thing and realizing its the honest-to-G truth. I may have to head back sooner rather than later….
Happily giddy on sugar, we strolled towards Brussel’s famed GRAND PLACE which is the city ’s main square with the city’s town hall. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For Christmas, it is splendidly adorned with lights on all the elegant old buildings, a massive Christmas Tree and a life size manger.
Friso in front of the city hall and the blue-lit tree
Our favorite element though was the evening light show that splayed across the cathedral building timed to the music spun by the host of DJs underneath the eaves. It was quite spectacular.
It displayed all sorts of colors, shapes and even letters
The show began around 5pm and lasted until 11:30pm. We loved being able to watch it earlier and then return to it on our stroll home from our hours-long dining evening. We also made sure to hit the Christmas Market and indulge in some of its finer offerings – Bratwurst, beer and homemade soaps.
The crowds in the market
Overall, our less-than-24-hours trip to Brussels was a decadent success. We ate our way happily through the city with high points such as Oysters at the Cain Caillerie (which doesn’t seem to have a website) and chocolate mousse and tiramisu at Cafe Vaudeville. Luckily the Hotel Amgio also has a nice, fully equipped fitness room that was empty but for us on Sunday morning.
December 1st, 2009
Amsterdam (and really, my computer)
I recognize this posting is a bit of a divergence from my regular material but, given that I have always had a deep love affair with paper goods/stationery and now live abroad- I can’t help but become a bit preoccupied with my holiday card selection.
Not only do I have to convey that we have indeed relocated to Amsterdam, but I must also showcase our happiness, my sophisticated taste and the appropriate holiday sentiments. As you can see, that’s a tall order for just one card. Luckily, my determination and love of research, not to mention friends and colleagues who make beautiful stationery, provide just the fodder for this pursuit.
Of course, some may find this all a bit trite, presuming my intense focus on my holiday card choice is really just evidence to my massive amount of free time. YET, I assure you – I have been like this every year and will continue to be so given the importance (okay, perhaps its a bit inflated) I attach to my annual holiday card.
As an editor at Town & Country Weddings I was in charge of the stationery stories we ran and nothing made me happier than sifting through the multitude of cards. There are so many wonderful designers out there these days, plus the internet has opened up incredible options, not to mention providing a forum for new, independent designers. What can I say? I absolutely adore the process and hope by putting down some of my contenders here, I can encourage you all to enjoy the annual pursuit as much as me!
A list of some of my favorite designers and their holiday designs:
1. HELLO LUCKY – one of my favorite card designers out of London and San Francisco for wonderfully colorful, graphic heavy, letterpress designs. Their fold over holiday cards are simply adorable plus customizable!
DECK THE HALLS is one of my favorites, especially for those living in a city. It translates the warmth of the holidays, the homeyness, yet also shows how its a wonderful time of year for people, neighbors even, to share and experience the spirit together.
If you follow the link by clicking the image above you can custom design it on their site
VESPA GIRL is ideal for the single gal who’s always on the go or a cute personal one from you to your girlfriends. (It can also double as a Thank you card to someone who is busy but always remembers your birthday)
not the greatest image - please click on it for the website
NUTCRACKERS is one of my top picks because I simply love them and feel they don’t get enough play from holiday designers. While I like the blue and brown colors of this card, I would prefer to see it in a red and brown or red and green motif instead Nevertheless, it’s still adorable.
click on photo for link to website to order
2. SMOCK – For the eco-conscious sender, these letterpress designs done on Bamboo paper stock are 100% biodegradable and charming. ORNAMENTS and the REINDEER designs are my two favorites. They both come as sets of 8 for $14 and are petite in size. They also make great gift cards – particularly for that “green” friend of yours.
I always love saying Merry Merry too!
Makes for a great gift card from or for a little one
3. MINTED is a stationery site that displays the work of various featured artists. They consider themselves promoters of independent designers and some of the very best small shop designers out there. Their intent is to promote talent and showcase today’s “freshest designs” and I have to agree, they do it all quite sincerely, and successfully. I have ordered cards from them in the past and consider them one of my first stops for my stationery needs and to get a good look at who’s doing what these days. This year, they have two new products which stand out – particularly for families and bulk mailings.
The first is the wraparound skinny address label
clever and cute!
The second is their Minibook holiday card – ideal for a new baby, families with multiple children, or the indecisive since its the perfect way to include more than one photo. There is an array of design options and all can be customized. Below is my favorite.
The black and white photos with the burgundy color and chartreuse envelope are a sophisticate's color palette dream come true
That’s all I have so far but don’t worry…there’s more to come!
October 26th, 2009
Amsterdam
Amsterdam’s annual PAN fair is a veritable who’s-who in the art world here, displaying the country’s finest art, antiques, silver and estate jewelery. I must admit, the sparkling and shiny items always commandeer the majority of my attention.
angles of PAN
Attracting more than 35,000 visitors, PAN Amsterdam appeals to everyone from young to old, museum curators to private art enthusiasts, and especially, interior designers. The twenty-two year running PAN Amsterdam prides itself on quality, with every object vetted for authenticity, artistic quality and condition by more than eighty experts. This strict judging process allows buyers to purchase with unfettered confidence. Alas, it wasn’t enough to compel my husband towards a certain Tanzanite ring.
oh pretty, pretty ring
Last year, PAN Amsterdam introduced a design pavilion featuring 20th-century furniture and lamps by leading national and international designers such as Charles and Ray Eames, Charlotte Perriand, Isamo Noguchi, Gerrit Rietveld, W.H. Gispen and Grete Jalk. This made PAN Amsterdam the first general art and antiques fair to give vintage design a permanent, prominent showcase.
With so much to see, ogle over and add to your wish list, its not surprising that PAN Amsterdam is also a bit of a social affair where colleagues can mingle, friends can peruse side by side and of course, students and budding collectors can learn a great deal. The Young Collectors night was last Thursday, and was like a mixer among fine art with a DJ, passed hors d’oevures and attractive, young Dutchies dressed in their finest.
Oh the Dutch boys
One of the booths was run by my husband’s good friend, Bertwin’s lovely wife Anne-Marie Verbeek. Her family’s gorgeous antiques and fine art company, Verbeek-Schuttelaar Antiquair, was one of the more impressive displays (and I promise that’s not from personal bias – I’d never even met her before). I easily lingered while my husband chatted away, adoring all the beautiful jewelery and silver from the likes of Cartier, Boucheron, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels. Anne-Marie specializes in 1940s jewelery and Art Deco and will even personalize modern designs. Many of her pieces were absolutely exquisite. Her store is located right in Amsterdam in a charming canal house on the Keizersgracht – conveniently not far from where I live.
Some of her enviable silver
I highly recommend visiting PAN Amsterdam – though plead that you ask for directions to its location, the RAI, first. The warehouse style building is a bit out of the city and somewhat difficult to find. I declare the metro as the easiest way, not to mention the rare experience you’ll garner from having ridden the metro in Amsterdam!
Conrad Rangali Island Resort & Spa
Maldives
November 7th, 2009
One of the first luxury branded properties to boost Hilton’s reputation abroad, the Conrad Rangali Island is also Hilton’s oldest property in the Maldives. Occupying two private islands in the central Atoll’s, the Conrad requires far less transit time (a mere 30 minute sea-plane ride from Male right to the resort’s dock) and guarantees the smooth service of a well-honed professional.
Trees only bend like that in Paradise, or so it would seem
The example by which the other properties strive to follow, the Conrad guarantees the Hilton guest (also a spot to use your Honors Awards) plenty of option from rooms (beach, over the water, even mansion-size) to cuisine (french to japanese to casual bar fare) to activities (from top-level spa to water sports to tennis).
the lush beach pathways at Conrad
The windsurfering instructors strutting their stuff at the resort
More like an all-inclusive resort (meal plans do apply) or a high-quality cruise ship, the Conrad is a well-oiled machine with all the requisite amenities one would expect from a five-star resort. Including, those few over-the-top amenities that let you know you’re somewhere the owners/staff are intent on wow-ing you and making a mark on your memory. At Conrad, the wow-factor is Ithaa, the Maldives’ only underwater restaurant.
Under the Sea
With just twelve seats, Ithaa requires advance booking and comes at a competitive price – $195 a head for lunch and $320 for dinner. The meals are three course and the food is exceptional, though, it is a tad strange to be eating fish as they swim by. We did joke that they probably see US as the attraction and come swim around the sunken restaurant (50-meters below the surface) for some daily people-gawking. Well, that and there’s someone that tosses chum overhead, ensuring the fish swarm at least once throughout the meal.
one of the less savory characters that swam (or swiveled) by
Suitable for both families and couples, the variety of water sports and dining options alone fill a week’s activities while the varying options of accommodations are well suited to everyone’s needs. For me, the place to stay is on the smaller island where the adults-only pool and chic new tented bar and private dining area are located.
Just like Temptation Island...okay, not at all, but the bartender under the tent does make a mean martini
The ‘other island’ is also home to the over-water spa (there are two spas at the resort – one on the big island, known as the Spa Retreat and the other, smaller one with just four treatment rooms).
The unassuming entrance to the over water spa
and behind it, the blissful treatment rooms
Above is the site of one of my favorite massages I’ve ever had. The room on the far left is where the magic happened. I’m not sure whether it was due to the exceptional quality of the room-there’s a glass peephole in the room’s floor right below the massage table – or the masseuse herself – a wonderfully strong woman from Thailand – or most likely, the winning combination that did it. I was transported to heaven with the noise of the water lapping and the strong hands (and elbows) working out every possible kink. The center villa is the relaxation room with open walls out to the sea and a hot tub. I could have spent hours there quite happily.
The talented spa ladies on the dunnie (the boat) back to the main island
The treatments are based on the colors and their chakras and you’re allowed to modify and combine as you see fit. I enjoyed the red, which focused on my bottom chakra and included a foot massage. Again, heaven.
As for where to sleep, I fell in love with the Deluxe Water Villas (shocker), also on the adult island. Although their contemporary-Schraeger-esque decor is not quite my taste, I was enamored with their 115 sq meters of open space, natural wooden walls and ceiling and expansive views.
The modern decor
The views of the villa from the bed are spectacular
There was a particular villa that struck all of us on the trip as ‘the one’ to rent. Number 348 – its corner location was the envy of all others.
The inviting entrance - welcome home
And last but not least, the piece de resistance – every woman’s most important element to ensuring a pleasant stay; the bathroom
The doors to the left open out to the deck, but the bathroom is mercifully sheltered should the weather be too much to bear (our experience)
At Conrad, the water sports – fishing, snorkeling, diving, sailing, banana-boating, windsurfing, wakeboarding etc. – are so abundant the array of water toys are practically challenging you to participate.
Flippers on the boat
Our hosts had kindly booked a mid-day snorkeling adventure on the Conrad’s plush fishing yacht with the promise of finding one of the area’s famed Whale Sharks.
photo courtesy of Nat Geo
Eager to spot whatever was out there we were delighted to be off on the boat. Our guide, Tomas, explained to us the docile nature of the Whale Shark (a vegetarian) and their recent elusiveness. It appeared he was setting our expectations to avoid disappointment.
As luck would have it – we found one! Naturally, the French were already there crowding the fish and swimming far closer than Tomas had told us possible. Yet, despite the crowds I was also able to swim right alongside the magnificent beast.
If you look closely you can see the dark spot in the center of the snorkelers - that's her (the whale shark)
My favorite angle was from the back. Swimming directly behind the shark and recognizing just how long and large the animal was, not to mention how gracefully it cut through the water, was one of the more amazing things I’ve ever seen – and with just a snorkel mask. I have to say, I felt like it was my own mini-version of the Abyss.
I must admit, I also enjoyed sunning on the boat’s bow on the way home.
My view on the way back to the resort
At Conrad there were so many things to do, see and eat. The four days flew by and even though the weather sometimes did this…
Typhoon style rain and wind
It also gave us this….
I will forever remember the Maldives as a spot of remarkable beauty, intrigue and genuine warmth. Thank you Hilton for bringing me here to see it firsthand. Now, all of you reading – trust that this is a tropical island experience unlike any other.
Maldives
November 3-5
Here at Iru Fushi, the Hilton’s largest property in the Maldives, the Hilton Honors Award program is in full effect. Wise and adventurous members save up their points and pool them for an unforgettable adventure in the Indian Ocean, and it appears they often bring their kids as well. The family-friendly resort has an even bigger kid’s club than the Beach House plus more restaurants, pools, spa treatment rooms and as presumed, square footage. It also has a beautiful beach.
that's sincere white powder sand
I checked out the property’s beach villas and must say, I spent the entire night wishing I was back over water. Not to say the beach villas aren’t great – your own private path to the beach, a separate beach gazebo, and an outdoor bathroom with center-stage freestanding tub.
the decor of the beach villa (photo courtesy of Hilton)
The tub (photo courtesy of Hilton)
Yet, there’s something about those over the water villas that kept me captivated and wanting more…Perhaps I’m just a water-freak, but how often is it that you can spend the night over water like that?
Alas, we only spent one day at the property and my favorite moment was walking the beach in the morning and touring the over the water villas, which, if you time it right, can get down to around $205 a night!
The beach chairs outside my room and the path out to the water villas (taunting as it did!)
Striking a pose on the restaurant deck near the over the water villas (okay, I'm obsessed.)
Maldives
November 1-3
My first stop in the Maldives was the Beach House, a former Relais & Chateaux hotel and soon-to-be member of the Waldorf Astoria Collection. The 68-villa property is located in one of the most Northern Atolls – the lagoon-ringed Haa Alifu Atoll – on Manafuru island. As expected, arriving to the remote hotel is a multi-step process. Once you’ve landed in Male (the Maldives International airport) from Europe (Frankfurt, London) or the Middle East (Doha, Dubai) you must take a 45 min prop-plane to Hanamahndhoo, one of two regional airports. From there you board the Resort’s fishing yacht for another 45 min speedboat ride to the island. **There are talks of getting a seaplane that will fly direct from Male to the island, but it’s a bit far off.
Despite the many legs of travel, arriving on Manafuru island never disappoints. The lush, jungle-like fauna of the island is atypical of the Maldives and is more reminiscent of the Atoll’s closest neighbor, Sri Lanka. I will admit, I barely noticed the bushes, given I was practically hypnotized by the exceptional turquoise waters and the promise of my over water villa. I have been dreaming about the over-the-water villa for a long, long time.
The villas, white beach and Infinity pool, cleverly named "infiniti"
Spread across the tiny island are 68 thatch-roofed villas and suites, half of which are on the beach and the other half, over-the-water. Between them are three restaurants, a massive kid’s club, a games room with Wii, a golf simulator and billiards, a lagoon pool set aside for families plus an adults-only infinity pool and of course, a spa.
the curvaceous stone path (walking on it was like mini-reflexology) of the spa
Set in the middle of the island, the spa menu features everything from Ayurvedic (oil on the third eye) to Swedish to Thai massages and a litany of body scrubs and facials. I enjoyed a relaxing aromatherapy massage (having chosen the lavender oil) and a pedicure, which was well done though a tad overpriced (particularly when it chipped the next day). C’est la vie, I was in the Maldives after all.
The over water villas at the Beach House
For me, there was no question which of the two villa types I preferred. Only one style is indigenous to the Maldives, constantly adorns magazines and brochures and has been taunting me since first glimpse, many years ago. As I set down the path above towards my own villa, I couldn’t help but asses which would be the preferable side (one is geared towards sunset, the other sunrise). I was thrilled to learn I was staying in one of the sunrise villas knowing that sunrise would be when I would be in my room for sure (we had a busy schedule) and allow me to wake up with the sun thus, the correct time.
My darling villa (a tad close to my neighbor for my liking, but remarkably quiet)
The 143sq meter room was not large but with windows, decks and open areas it felt like more than enough space. Drawn to the view and the water I was content to spend most of my time out on the deck with its black-bottom plunge pool and stairs down into the water or in the tub in the bathroom. They were easily the two best features by far. The bathroom’s toilet room and shower area both were missing 2/3rds of the wall (though discretely sheltered from the path by louvered walls) ensuring communication with nature at all times.
my afternoon - bliss save for the annoying greenhead flies -eventually I bailed and headed a to the resort's infinity pool where they served me water and mango sorbet without request - yum!
The spacious deck - ideal for room service breakfast
The villa’s decor is contemporary and fairly basic (though with the forthcoming of the Waldorf Astoria moniker (March 2010), is set to be upgraded with new linens and artwork). The current beds are firm with Frette linens and ample pillows while the rattan furnishings complimented by tropical colored cushions are easy and do the job of holding your draped clothes and wet suits with zero reaction.
The bed and artwork (both set to be removed)
I would have preferred more intimacy with the view from my bed (as in – closer to the actual windows) but overall, it was comfortable and I slept quite well. Despite the inclement weather, two of the three days saw lots of rain, I was mesmerized by the 360-degree water views, constant sloshing soundtrack of the water and the peepholes in the floor showcasing the underwater world. I figure if you can like your room in bad weather (especially bad weather in a spot that promises none) then that’s the ultimate vote of confidence for a guest room’s quality.
Our elegant dinner set up
The staff at Beach House could not have been friendlier nor more international – two Italians, a Frenchman, an African, a Maldivian, etc. On our last night there was a beach party in our and the German press trip’s honor. There were also some German contestants from their Top Model show. To our delight, the camera crew filmed a photo shoot scene with the pair frolicking in the waves.
Germany's Next Top Models (my friend Bob threatened to tackle them right into the water, which would have clearly MADE the episode)
Overall, the Beach House is a lovely property with an even better location. I found its secluded spot to be ideal and appreciated the level of quality they’re reaching towards. The property officially becomes part of the Waldorf Astoria Collection on March 1st. I would wait to book until then, though do recommend going. I have every confidence the property will be top-notch by then - the quality of the infrastructure is already there, it’s just waiting on the refinement of all the details.
Maldives
November 1, 2009
Please forgive the tragic cliche of a headline above, but truly, I found one of paradise’s costumes right here in the Maldives. This long strand of islands, or Atolls as they’re known, out in the middle of the Indian Ocean features some of the most picturesque island-fantasy scenery I have ever imagined. Lo and behold the proof from my camera:
You can't make the water color up
I’ve been here for all of two days (1 of them rained) and already I’m vowing – writing promises in the sand – to return. It’s no wonder travel mags run loads of Maldivian spreads – the place is a lazy photographer’s dream. Every shot is stunning. I may even venture that your computer’s tropical screensaver is indeed from here – this place is almost impossible to make look unappealing.
view on my morning walk
From the variant shades of turqouise water to the simple wood and thatch-roofed architecture to the Indian influenced spicy cuisine, the Maldives are a study in effortless vacation. Too bad they’re so darn far away…..
The famous over-the-water villas
THE CAVEAT – GETTING HERE:
Okay, they’re SUPER far away. They’re pretty much in the middle of the ocean and the closest neighbor is Sri Lanka. It takes upwards of 30 hours to get to them and even then you have some domestic travel. But, here’s some good news – British Airways has just announced a new direct flight from London to Male, the Maldives’ main hub, making travel from Europe far, far easier.
Just so you know, I came from London through Doha on Qatar Airways and though they are the “Five Star” airline, as they suggest, and my layover in Doha was incredibly easy (40 minutes in a nice lounge), I was exhausted by the time I arrived in Male, and then we still had to take a transfer plane and another boat. Depending on your resort, once you arrive in Male you either have a boat ride, regional flight on Maldivian air, (or both like me) or if you’re lucky then its just a quick (and fun) ride on one of the many Sea Plane taxis.
Our ride
As a first time Sea Plane rider, this was hands down one of the best parts of the trip. I LOVED landing on water, think it takes away much of the fear. Not to mention the views from the plane are mesmerizing and allow for a greater perspective about this long stretch of Atolls. Short of being on a boat, its the best way to travel and see the area.
where we boarded
For the eight days I’ll spend here, I am going to check out three of the Hilton properties – the Beach House, part of the Waldorf Astoria collection, Hilton’s Iru Fushi and Conrad Rangali Island. Stay tuned for individual posts.
Amsterdam
October 28th, 2009
Upon my move to Amsterdam, I reached out to the Dutch Tourism Board in an effort to introduce myself (get plugged into upcoming events) as a new journalist. Just my luck, they were extremely responsive (far nicer than the PR department at KLM) and right away I was invited to the preview party of Amsterdam’s annual Affordable Art Fair.
I must admit, I was very eager to go and for more than just professional reasons…after all, this was to be my debut on the Dutch media scene! And maybe, just maybe, my husband and I would spot something suitable for our new home.
The Affordable Art Fair in Amsterdam
The Affordable Art Fair debuted in London in 1999 by a gallery owner in Battersea and from there the idea caught on like wildfire. Cities like New York, Melbourne and Glasgow called him, eager to do the same – encourage art enthusiasts of all wallet sizes with over 500 galleries showing. Though the AAF events are connected by name, each city has its own management office and given art tastes differ from city to city. In Amsterdam, the art tends to be more Modern than traditional or contemporary.
Stalls in the Westergasfabriek
The entry price for Amsterdam’s fair is said to be 100 euro, though the least expensive thing I spied was 600. My husband and I biked to the fair (naturally), which was housed in a former gas warehouse just beyond the center of the city – very industrial chic.
The opening party attracted hordes of people (so much for it being the exclusive press debut I had hoped for) and appeared to be a huge success. People were milling about, wine glass in hand jovially chatting while gallery reps were eager to share information and push the sell. Some looked as though they were there purely for the social benefit.
Walking around, I was surprised to find a few things that caught my eye. Admittedly, I am hardly an art conaisseur, let alone Modern Art.
Popular contemporary Dutch artist
One of the artists whose work I very much liked but was sadly NOT affordable
Just as we were about to leave, my husband and I actually happened upon a print that we both adored. As the gallery manager pushed his go-to line, “It’s so rare when both members of the couple are drawn to a piece equally”. We shared a longing look and excitedly secured of our first art purchase.
From up-and-coming English artist Carl Moore, “The Cow Who Wanted to be a Tiger” caught us both with its charm and color scheme and given our own tiger fantasies, seemed like a must-have. The print is one of a series of 25 animals that Moore has done and we hope (once our wallets expand) to add a few of the others to our collection.
The Affordable Art Fair in Amsterdam runs through the first week of November and then heads back down to Sydney and then to London in March 2010. Be sure to check any of them out if you can. They’re a great time to mingle if not, purchase.
FROM THE PEANUT GALLERY